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nfi

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About nfi

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    s15
  1. While I would really like a sequential it's a few years off at best. I'd like a tractive sequential when/if I can afford one. There is heaps of ideas of stuff we think would make us go faster it's just a case of prioritising. Want to mostly keep the car going while refining and building a bit more
  2. Front camber settings for track s15

    I run a rear swaybar and run it quite stiff. Its a custom whiteline bar but I run probably equivalent to a 20mm bar on as hard as it can go. IMHO if you are not running a rear swaybar then you're masking a setup issue. My car, Sutton bros, hawkins, under suzuki all run aftermarket rear swaybars.....
  3. Front camber settings for track s15

    Hard to explain in writing but i'll have a crack.... A good motorsport suspension/wheel alignment place will understand from what i've written... Think of your car it two halves. You want the front and the rear to have equal load on them so they begin to breakaway at the same g forces so the car feels balanced. What it sounds like (note the sound as I'm only going off what you've written) is you have way to much of a reliance on the front of the car for grip hence why you are needing so much front camber. You're overpowering the front tyres so you are having to compensate with more front camber but ultimately the car is still not balanced from a dynamic (weight shift) perspective which is why its not nice round all corners. Focus on shifting the weight shift to the rear through extra rear swaybar (when the car loads up (weight shifts) turning into a corner the rear won't roll as much loading up the back outside tyre and taking pressure off the outside front) and then you'll need the rear camber to support it. Hope that makes more sense.
  4. Unfortunately not. Priorities has led to me having to sit this year out. Car is in the build phase again though, its coming apart shortly. Aiming for next year.
  5. Time attack peeps - Let's talk Tyres

    Ive driven back to back on advan a050's vs hankook 221's and the hankooks in my humble opinion are faster, more consistent, wear better, last longer and inspire more confidence. At WTAC its widely known that the A050's are good for their very first heat cycle and after that they are 0.5-0.8 seconds slower which is quite a lot. hankooks are still fastest in their first heat cycle but taper off significantly less and are still good all the way to the tread running out. The advan's are pretty much for the bin if you cane them in their first heat cycle after a 5-6 sessions on them. Brand new the hankooks are fractionally faster as well but not by much. The first year of Wtac being advan's everyone who was previously running hankooks was complaining.
  6. Front camber settings for track s15

    I think you're front issues are caused by poor setup in the rear. You're relying on your fronts entirely to turn in instead of getting the car to dynamically turn in. Try reducing camber to 3-3.5 and increase rear swaybar dramatically. Rear camber should be 2.25-2.5 if you have the dynamic balance right.
  7. TRW vs QFM pads.

    I've tested 8 different pads on my car.... In my experience you get exactly what you pay for. With R comps I could overheat a set of Q1RM's in not even 1 lap push hard, basically from my perspective they were complete rubbish. Same with Lucas pads. DS2500's are a mild track but more street pad but they are rubbish when they are cold but are nice on rotors. Definitely wouldn't recommend for the track as they have little feel. DTC60's are a seriously aggressive pad with a 0.61 friction co-efficient which is really too high for the weight of our cars making them very touchy. Highly unlikely they'll overheat and perfectly fine even when stone cold, but they are pretty aggressive on rotors. These pads have quite a bit of iron in them though which stained my rims and took me days to get off. Endless PC35's is what I use and they are seriously amazing. Great when cold, dust isn't nasty, can't overheat them even when the fluid has got too hot. Last ages as well, i'm only just about to put my 3rd set in, done maybe 15 track days on them and they still aren't quite finished. Awesome modulation as well. Not surprisingly though they are expensive at $700 for a full set front and rear on gtr brembo's.
  8. For what its worth here some of my experiences to the questions above... VE valve train is actually very heavy so you need heavier valve springs than you would on a DE. Its very strong but definitely heavy. I'd be going with something about >200 pound on the nose and >80 on the seat. Maybe even stiffer. Because of E85 and the VE head being a lot more detonation resistant don't worry if compression is on the higher end compared to stock, shouldn't be a problem. VE's need tonnes of flow so I would personally steer away from that greddy plenum I reckon it would suck a tonne of power out of that engine as the inlets inside the inlet manifold are smaller than the actual inlets on the side of the engine so you're heavily restricting the power the engine can make. You really want some decent taper (ie. the ports are bigger at the inlet manifold than they are where the port meets the head. Quite a big bigger ideally at the manifold so it speeds up the air as it goes into the head. You can definitely run low profile injectors. ID/bosch injectors that most people use come with collars that space the fuel rail away to make it easier to work on but you don't have to run these. Also, the reason everyone is using top feed is because i'm not aware of any side feed injectors that are actually any good in big sizes which you need for e85. Most of the big side feeds are pretty ordinary for normal driving/idle etc. VE setups can definitely be done cheaply as Nick as definitely shown. Where it snowballs is VE's open so many doors to unlock efficiencies which are hard to ignore... Ie. a 100mm intercooler will translate into noticeably more power, you can have a bigger turbo with very good response, switch separate camshafts at different times result in better power delivery hence standalone ecu, with more power comes the need for better cooling so you need a bigger radiator for trackwork, VE oil pumps pump a lot more than a standard oil pump so you really need a bigger sump to stop oil surge when driven hard with corners etc. Now you've spent all this money you want temps and pressures logged to tell you if anything is going wrong, so you need gauges or a dash and all the supporting sensors... It snowballs really quickly but it doesn't have to all be done in one go. Nick has shown if you have restraint you can do it progressively without spending a tonne of money upfront.
  9. Spring rates are probably not that useful comparing since my car is widebody but definitely run your swaybars on full hard on the front and medium or hard on the rear. Spring rates for standard body I reckon 7/5 for the track. Just need good dampers to support them.
  10. So issue now should be all fixed. Just got stuck right into it and forgot all about taking pics but basically, I decided to use my original bracket and modify it. So went down to hypertune, welded a larger nut and bolt, strengthened slightly and put it back on the car. Pressure line is now back sitting neatly out of the way. Lets hope thats the last of it!
  11. Have missed the updates on your car for a few months. Awesome progress. Love the carbon work.
  12. Next challenge I'm working on is the power steering. Basically we made our own bracket to reduce weight. Factory bracket is approaching 5kg which is just unacceptable. So the bracket we made has been on the car since the VE engine and has only ever thrown the belt once where the belt actually shredded at WTAC last year. The other week at Wakefield it actually came off and I literally couldn't steer as it came off at about 170kmhr at full load. As you can kind of see the bracket is two parts in the first pic below. Firstly it mounts very low and secondly it has the upper section the pump swings off and the bottom section the rose joints and turn buckle we made is connected to. Issue is, over time the power steering has turned inwards as the metal wore primarily because the bolt supporting it was not thick enough. So option one was to fix it or option 2 was to buy one of taarks sexy cnc ones that actually mounts the pump even lower. However as it always is when everything is this custom I'm thinking through the solution... Basically taarks work of art is not fitting on my car as first the speed flow fitting (obviously not standard) is fowling on the chassis rail and is now on the wrong angle - he mounts the pump sitting lower and facing downwards if that makes sense and the 2nd issue is that now the pressure line is too long. You can see this in pic 2 and 3. You'll also see in pic 3 how close the belt was to coming off a 2nd time after we went out again. I hate doing anything by half measures so I've got a decision to make. Ideal solution is to have the pressure line remade and also make a new line from the reservoir to the pump which is quite simple... But I also need to put a ps cooler in because I keep boiling the fluid and I've got a track day coming up in 2 weeks... So what I'm going to do is fix my current bracket and get that back on the car. Then I'm going to do it properly and mount a cooler and redo all the lines which is not hard but very time consuming particularly the pressure line.
  13. So I have been a bit hesistant to put up pics of the completed engine bay as the rocker cover we haven't repainted yet. It was done in one night and doesn't really look very nice. Its changing to a different colour but won't have a chance to do it for at least a couple of weeks, so here is a pic of where we are up to. This is a really crappy pic but it gives you a good idea. Will be more pics when we finish and then take some proper pics in the sun under natural light rather than in the garage. As a result of all of this the car is much easier to work on as well which is one of my conditions whenever anything is changed. The mazworx plenum was a two person job to put on as the bolts were very difficult to get to with the angle of the plenum. With the hypertune plenum I could put it on by myself in a quarter of the time. Because the manifold comes up on an angle all the bolts are easy to get to and there is plenty of room under the manifold to reach everything.
  14. We actually made a gurney flap for world time attack and stuck it on. Worked quite well but still didn't have enough rear downforce to match the front. We also believe we had issues with the front downforce actually reducing rear downforce due to the design but we're going to test that. For the moment we've gone back to our old aero just to keep developing the car.
  15. More pics to come of the engine bay as well. Just need to finish off the rocker cover when we get a chance.
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