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About spinning_rotary

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  1. Make : NISSAN SILVIA Transmission : Kilometres : 121000 Price : $7,000 Condition : Used Aftermarket mods: Aftermarket shocks and springs (NOT coilovers) S14 5stud brakes and hub conversion S14 RDA slotted rotors and project Mu pads ISC front mount intercooler S14 wheels NISMO 2-way LSD (Strong locking) 11psi stock Turbo Dyno-ed at 167kw Inspections welcome (Kurralta Park/Anzac Highway) Jason 0404 621 986
  2. Looking at buying a S6 rx7

    rotaries are notorious for breaking down after a certain age, even though rotary enthusiast will tell you different sides of the story. if it's a street car and you're planning on keeping it stock, the original engine should be fine. a thing you may need to look out for is the apex seals on the engine, as these are usually the first part in the rotary that wears out after a while. if you're just looking for a cheap fix for an everyday car, i don't imagine it would cost too much to just get the seals replaced when you get the car. if you're chasing for more power, rebuilding would be essential, and you should also take the opportunity to toughen the engine up as well. one thing that really tells the age of the car is the turbo. if the rx7 you're getting still has its originally twin turbo setup (i assume it has, unless it's been modified to a single turbo), try and rev the car up and engage the 2nd turbo. one thing most people notice in older rotaries is that after a while, there is a significant drop in boost when the car disengages the first and engages the secondary turbo. i don't mean a drop in boost as in 1-3 seconds, as that is normal, but closer to 10s. if you have that, the turbo may be in need for a refresh. other than that, i think the rest is the norm when you're buying any other car. suspensions, tyres, brakes, etc. good luck with your import
  3. Breaks

    i think this is normal whenever you change brakes. you just need to wear the new pads, and rotors in your case, in. after a while, it should be fine. if not, there's still no harm done to the system, in my opinion. it's just hard stuffs rubbing against one another to generate your braking force.
  4. Fittning R32 GTR seats into S13

    nice work. would be a good guide for me as i'm thinking of getting the same thing done soon too. cheers
  5. Rev tacho bounching around

    hmmm.... weird. could be just the tacho, but my first thought would be a slipped clutch. no?
  6. S13 problem

    sounds weird, as previously stated, it seems like the autobox is the most likely culprit. would be interested in hearing the results from mechanical check ups. keep us posted
  7. SAPOL get caught out! email leaked...

    not too surprised with this leak, really. there are always several ways to look at this argument, but it'd be really difficult for such a thing to be implemented without some people being unjustly detained/fined etc etc. anyways, it's good to hear that the 'quota' was officially retracted, but we all know that there will always be an unspoken rule on quotas anyways. always has been, and will be.
  8. New Defect Fines?

    wow, i'm totally blown away by this news. this is seriously starting to feel really targeted.
  9. Whats holding me back

    hmm... very weird. with your kind of set up, i'd expect 240-250rwkw on average, as other people have already mentioned. You may have checked these before but maybe we can run this through again? Any turbo leaks? Check your turbo gaskets, how were they fitted on? New clutch, so it's probably not slipping right? But what is its clamping force? Is it compatible to the power you're trying to push for? A decat or high flow cat should work just fine for the flow, so I doubt it would be that if you've already check that. How's your A/F ratio like? Does it lean down at higher RPMs? Have you checked your fuel pump?
  10. s14/15 brake upgrade

    am going to put RDA slotted s14 rotors into my 180sx. best bang for bucks at the moment. tho further down the road, i'm hoping for a r33 gtst front/ r34 gtt rear set up. i think, from what i've heard on this forum alone (r33 brakes in front do not need to be drilled?), it's the best way to go. i have a mate running s14 fronts and r33 gtst rear. great set up, but, obviously, the rear locks up first, which can lead to some pretty funny things on the track. a brake bias should fix that issue, hopefully. not too sure if i'd need that for r33/r34 front/rear set up.
  11. stalling while braking sounds very similar to an afm issue that i had earlier. even if there are no sings/cracks etc on the afm, swap it for a good one and give it a try. those things are fragile as.
  12. i believe it's just your new pads wearing it. as others have said, if your mechanics have done a proper job, you just need to wear the pads in a bit, and the noise should gradually go away eventually. took about a month of normal, non-aggressive daily driving for me, and that was on pads not half as aggressive as project mu, so expect it to be a while. a question i would ask tho, would the squealing also be because of worn rotors? i doubt it, but can't really say for sure.
  13. RSM is always on

    probably, but i've rewired it into the accessory wire, so all's good now
  14. RSM is always on

    have had the car over 2 years already, and have changed from bigger to smaller battery to fit turbo in, and have never had any dead batteries.....yet no, it doesn't turn off when i take the key out. it never turns off. lolx
  15. RSM is always on

    I guess i'll try hooking it up to the accessory power off my head unit this weekend. cheers for that guys.